EXFOLIATE FIRST
“Think of the surface of the epidermis—those dead cells—as a barrier,” says dermatologist Amy Wechsler. “You have to remove it for products to get in.” This particular barrier is more like a gossamer curtain than a brick wall, however, so go easy.
Basic cleansers free up pores by removing dirt and oil, but to truly increase absorption, you’ll need an enzyme– or acid–based cleanser, such as Neutrogena Deep Clean Facial Cleanser (ideal for sensitive and acne-prone skin), a grainy scrub with small, smooth particles, like Clinique 7 Day Scrub Cream Rinse-Off Formula, or another type of gentle buffing tool. Try:
• A skin brush, like the Clarisonic Classic Sonic Skin Cleansing System or the Olay Professional Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System, daily.
• A resurfacing stick (a waxy balm packed with tiny crystals), such as Blinc Resurf-a-stic, one to three times a week.
GO IN ORDER
Like Southwest Airlines, your skin has a firm first-come-first-serve policy. “Whatever goes on first penetrates best,” says dermatologist Jeannette Graf. So whether you’re fighting wrinkles, zits, or sun spots, the most active ingredients should be applied first. If you’re using two products for two different problems, apply one to bare skin in the morning and the other to bare skin at night so you’re guaranteed 100 percent efficacy from both. After treatments are in place, smooth on other items in order of density, from thinnest (antioxidant serum) to thickest (sunscreen or night cream). The exception is retinoids, which could irritate those with sensitive skin if applied first.
APPLY TO JUST-WASHED SKIN
WARM IT UP
TOP IT OFF
SAVE RETINOIDS FOR NIGHTTIME
Another distinct advantage night has over day: Skin temperature rises by about half a degree while we sleep, because more blood is shunted to the skin, away from internal organs. And with greater warmth and blood-vessel dilation comes better penetration. Says Bank, “Though it’s not an enormous difference, your skin does absorb more overnight.” This pertains to any ingredient you apply before bed, not just retinoids.
TRY SERUMS
When you want maximum impact from a fragrance, you buy the parfum, not the scented body wash. Similarly, you’ll find the strongest dose of active ingredients in serums—not, say, cleansers. “A serum is a concentrated source of an active ingredient in a simple form that penetrates very quickly and completely, unhindered by lotion-type emollients that make it difficult for actives to sink in,” Hammer says. One instance of a serum adding intense moisture: In a company study, Perlier Hydro-Zone Face Cream increased skin hydration 21 percent when used alone. But when combined with Hydro-Zone Face Serum, there was an average increase in skin hydration of 35 percent.
COMBINE RIGHT
By Egypt Eve
Egypt Eve Website Editor
